Gujarat has many
pluses, but the weather is not one of them. It varies from hot to very very hot
throughout the year, except for a very brief period in December/January where
the heat relents to give way to a nice cool day and a cold night.
In this brief seasonal
interlude the state becomes a very alluring tourist destination. The air is
crisp, the heat is well, under control and the roads beckon you to go on long
drives.
The temptation to
explore new lands was too tough for us to resist. Kutch it was going to be, we
thought!
The district that
gives Gujarat the unique shape on its northwest border, Kutch is blessed with a
fascinating landscape.
Spread over 45,000
square kilometers, it is India’s largest district, larger than the states of
Haryana, Kerala, Mizoram, Manipur et al. With a population of just about 2
Million, (lower than the population of the Kalyan Dombivali belt in Mumbai!) it has a density of just 46 persons per square
kilometer!!!
This is the district
that bore the brunt of the earthquake that devastated western India in 2001,
flattening cities like Bhuj, Anjar, Bachau. The scar left by the earthquake is
visible even now, with not many buildings taller than 3 storeys.
The drive from
Ahmedabad to the Kutch district goes through the districts of Ahmedabad,
Surendranagar and Rajkot. As you travel westwards, the landscape changes dramatically.
The modern gives way to the traditional, the green flora gives way to the grey,
the colourful male clothes give way to the the white.
The trip was going to
be exciting, we thought…
Mandvi on the southern
tip is a coastal town offering some breathtaking views of the sea.
The place where we
stayed was abutting the Vijaya Vilas palace, a beautiful early 20th
century palace that has regal presence. Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, a classy Hindi
movie was shot here. Our first day ended with a visit to the palace.
The night had its
share of excitement. Sporadically, at various times during the night, we could
hear some unearthly sounds, sounds that our ears are not used to.
Locals informed us
that we were in the lap of nature and the voices we heard were a combination of wolf, wild ass (Nilgai),
deers, antelope.
The second day, we
decided to explore. To see places - well known and less known!
Our first destination
was a place called Kala Dungar, the black hill.
As we crossed Bhuj and
moved towards the farthest ends of the country, we came across several small handicraft
showrooms, showcasing the kutch craftsmanship.
The bed sheets, the
carpets, the rugs, the range of clothes, all handmade, show the dexterity of
these artisans.
Kala Dungar , the
highest point of the Kutch District offers an unparalleled view from its peak.
A 270 degree sweep offers three vastly different views, each distinct and each
holding promise.
To your right,
stretching up to the horizon, is water. The blueness of the water providing a
stark visual contrast to the heat that envelops you. We thought it was the Arabian
Sea, only to understand later that it was the Rann of Kutch lake. In an island
on this lake is Dholavira, containing
some remnants of the the earliest civilization of India, the Harappa civilization.
In front of you is
Pakistan! At night, you can see lights glowing in the their houses. From here,
it did not look so hostile.
To your left is a vast
whiteness. This is the white desert, the Rann, that makes the land so famous.
In this vastness is visible a small bridge, the “India Bridge” beyond which
civilians are not allowed to go.
On the way back from
the Dungar, at a “magnetic point” you go through a strange experience of your
car going uphill on its own. Freaky.
The drive from the dungar
to the white rann passes through the most desolate stretches imaginable. For
kilometers at end, we could not see a single soul, as you are surrounded by
emptiness. Just imagine your vehicle breaking
down here!
As we got closer to
the Rann, we were thinking -Was it going to be much ado about nothing?
An ornate gate was the
first hint of something interesting. From the gate a road was drawn out taking
you inside. As we moved forward, we could see subtle differences cropping up.
The brown sand that one is so used to was giving way to something new,
something sparkling.
About 500 meters on
the road, to your left and to your right, you were no longer looking at the
familiar brown that makes a desert. Instead it was a glistening white.
And, finally we set
foot in the White Rann!
We know nature hides
many marvels, but this was a marvel that we could not have dreamt of. In front
of us, stretching in all directions as far as our eyes could see was glistening
white. And, what was the white? Crystals of salt - as if someone had carefully
sprayed on the ground. The Crystals were wet, the ground damp, but our feeling
was one of elation.
As the sun set, we
could see the crystals change colour from white to golden.
For a fleeting moment,
the vast plain in front of us was a sheet of gold, the God having turned
alchemist.
And in moonlight, you
feel lost, feeling like a minion in the largest silver bowl that you ever have
seen. Neil Armstrong must have had a similar experience when he landed on the
moon.
With thoughts of “we
will surely come back” we left for our hotel.
A few years back,
India had very few tourist destinations, except for Delhi, Agra, Jaipur – the so
called Golden Triangle. As governments realized the power of tourism, were born
Kerala and Goa.
In this quest,
possibly someone realized the unraveled beauty that the Kutch houses.
This blog doffs its
hat to those who presented the Kutch in its most beautiful avatar to the world.
